How to Customize a Scotty Cameron Putter using John Norell Moly Resin
Who in their right mind would risk destroying a Scotty Cameron?
We did, it was glorious, and this is how we did it...
We were lucky enough to find a solid Scotty Cameron Select Newport 2 after a few weeks of searching. This one had a few scratches, but nothing major which is exactly what we wanted for the Norell Moly Resin customization.
There was more than a moment of hesitation before we started, but once the head was removed it was full blown go time.
The first step was to remove the putter head from the shaft so we could begin the stripping process. To do this you simply apply heat to the head and shaft where they meet to loosen the epoxy holding it together. We used a propane torch and within a few minutes of heating the area the head pulled away. Just make sure to use think gloves or an oven mitt because it will be very hot. There will also be some left over glue in the head and shaft which is normal.
With the head removed we broke down the putter into its components (head, weights, face, and screws) to begin the next step.
The face on this model was held in place by four allen screws and 3M double sided tape. To remove the face first remove the screws and then apply heat to the face and head. Once the double sided tape warms up you can pry the face off of the head using a plastic scraper or something similar to reduce the chances of scratches.
Note that you will want to remove the rubber O-rings from the weights to reuse them once you are done.
The first step in the prepping process is to remove all of the paint and excess oils from the putter head and components using Acetone.
Acetone is commonly used as a type of paint thinner and can be easily found in most hardware stores. It is also a main component in most nail polish removers.
The easiest way to use the Acetone is to find a glass jar large enough to hold the putter head and components. Make sure not to use plastic containers as the Acetone will eat through them quickly. We were able to find a perfect jar at our local big box store in the form of a cookie jar with a screw on lid.
To start the paint removal simply place the head and components in the jar, fill it with Acetone, and then let it sit overnight. The acetone will break down the paints and oils on the putter leaving an easy cleanup. Remove the head from the jar and then clean out the remaining paint fill using an old toothbrush and/or a toothpick. Make sure to get all of the paint out now to make the finish better in the end. Also don't forget to clean out the excess epoxy from the shaft removal.
With all of the paint removed now is the time to start prepping the surface for the Norell Moly Resin application. The resin needs a slight texture to adhere correctly which is achieved by blasting the putter head with fine sand or other media.
For this step make sure to wear proper safety gear and a respirator as the fine sand particles can be very dangerous for your health.
Per the Moly Resin application guide (which you can find here) "we recommend medium-fine grit size of Garnet or aluminum oxide (60 to 100 grit size). Fine sand works well too and is technically called #4 Sand but may also be labeled as Play Sand at Home Depot, Lowes, etc." Since we were only doing this one putter currently we opted for the #4 sand. If you do go that route make sure the sand is dry before you attempt to use it or you will clog your blasting gun. If it is not dry you can bake the moisture off by placing the sand on a sheet and then baking it inside your oven. To do this keep baking the sand while stirring occasionally until it no longer forms clumps.
For the blasting we set the air pressure to 55 PSI and then using a hand gun from Amazon (linked here) we took our time making sure to go over every surface. Pay special attention to the non-flat areas such as corners, edges, and under the neck. A good, even blasting is crucial for a good final appearance. It is tough to over do this step, but if you do not cover the entire surface evenly the moly resin will not adhere correctly. We suggest going over the entire piece a few times instead of one long session.
Once finished the surface should have a slight texture and a uniform color/appearance. When you are satisfied clean out the excess blasting material with air and a brush then return the parts to the acetone bath. From here forward the parts should remain in the acetone and not be handled without rubber gloves to protect them from oils and moisture.
Prepping Supplies and Workspace
Now that the components are prepped it is time to gather the materials needed to ensure a good, even application. It is crucial to have everything ready and organized because once you start the process there is no going back and no stopping.
For materials you will need:
An oven (we used a toaster oven from a thrift shop)
A base / stand or a way to hang the pieces
Moly Resin that has been mixed thoroughly
An airbrush kit (we used this one)
Air compressor regulated to 25 PSI with a moisture trap
Painters tape or masking tape
The clean components
Test subject (not required, but HIGHLY encouraged)
For this section we will quickly go through some helpful tips and tricks we learned one our test subject (Thank you old Snake Eye SW) to give you a leg up on a great finish.
Test your oven! -
During the prepping process we did numerous trial runs with our secondhand toaster oven to find the optimal heat setting. Just because the dial says 305* does not mean that's true. Use a meat thermometer and get the oven up to temp and try to hold it there. The correct temperature is crucial as if it is too cold the resin will not cure and if it is too hot the color will turn darker. We also tested it by putting the SW head in there to see how that effected the temp.
Build a Base -
During our trial run we tried hanging the head of the SW and ran into a few issues. We then build a little stand (pictured above) and it worked perfectly. We highly suggest going this route because it also allows you to remove the hear for cooling without the worry of banging it into the hot oven walls.
Test Your Airbrush -
If you are not an expert we also suggest testing your airbrush skills before applying the resin. You can use water on a piece of paper or we suggest some acetone as it will also clean out the gun at the same time. Play with different angles and distance from the paper now and it will pay off when you are twisting the putter head to get just the right angle later.
Shake it Up -
The Moly Resin MUST be well mix to ensure an even application. Shake the bottle, shake it some more, then keep shaking it a while longer. During the application make sure to keep your airbrush moving as well.
Do some Testing -
We can not stress how helpful it was doing a test run on the bargain bin sand wedge. It may seem like a waste, but the materials are inexpensive except for the putter!
Applying the Moly Resin
Go time, it all comes down to this. Before moving forward stop and reread everything above, double check your supplies, and start preheating your oven.
For the oven we suggest getting it fully up to temp before you start coating the items. We also suggest making sure that your air compressor is fully charged too.
Once you have everything ready start spraying your components starting with the putter head and then the smaller weights. Keep in mind that a few light coats are much better than one heavy one. Take your time and make sure to check the pieces from all angles and in different lights. Keep turning the piece to spray the text and features from all angles to make sure you get all of the nooks and crannies. You want to evenly coat the pieces without them looking wet or too shinny.
After you are satisfied with the coating place your items in the preheated oven along with a temperature probe. For a proper finish the resin must reach at least 300* to harden so watch your oven and make sure the temperature does not drop too much at first. You may need to adjust it for a bit, but the temperature should even out after a few minutes.
We opted to coat our components with them at room temperature for a little glossier finish then bake them at 3058 for one hour and fifteen minutes. If you bake the items for too long the color will take on a darker greenish hue. Once your components cool down it is time to test your work. You can do this by wetting a cloth or paper towel with Acetone and rubbing it across the putter head. If the application was successful there should be very little to no color residue on the paper towel.
Paint Fill & Assembly
Once the putter and components cool the real fun can begin.
For the paint fill we opted for Testors enamel model paint. You can find these paints in any hobby store in a million colors. You can also mix the colors to create your own. Other than the paint you will need some toothpicks and a fine tipped brush if you desire. If you did create a stand or holder for the head it will come in handy here as well.
For the fill simply dip the toothpick into the paint and then fill in the lettering or spots you want to fill. It is very tough to over fill the spots so make sure to put enough paint to fill all of the nooks and crannies of the text. We found that by using the toothpick it was easier to get an even fill with less air bubbles to deal with later. If a bubble does form, pop it and then smooth over the area. Once satisfied simply let the paint dry then move on to the next side of the head.
Once you have all of the text and markings filled you can start to reveal the text.
To do this dip a clean paper towel in the acetone and with little to no pressure quickly swipe it over the head of the putter. Take you time and always make sure to use a clean section of your towel to remove thin layers of paint with each swipe. It also helps to swipe in the same direction with each pass if you can. For tight spots or corners you can fold over the paper towel on the tip of a toothpick. With a little practice (thank you again Snake Eyes SW) this is a very easy and enjoyable process.
Once you are finished removing the excess paint let the putter dry overnight then you can reassemble the putter head. For the allen screws we suggest applying a small drop of removable locktight so they do not have a chance of coming loose in the future.
After some research we opted to not replace the 3M double sided tape behind the face and we were very happy with the feel. If you would like to replace the tape you can find it on eBay under "3M VHB F9473PC Adhesive Transfer Double Stick Tape."
We hope you enjoyed this tutorial and that it's given you the confidence to try it yourself!